Our new official repo is on github
LCD Smartie version 5.6 is released!
Download it now: https://github.com/LCD-Smartie/LCDSmartie/releases
LCD Smartie version 5.6 is released!
Download it now: https://github.com/LCD-Smartie/LCDSmartie/releases
PIC Serial Backpack I - Make your own Serial LCD
Moderators: _X7JAY7X_, caesar, IFR, mattcro, limbo, Fast351, hydrolisk1792
-
- Hardware Genie - Plugin Author
- Posts: 374
- Joined: February 16th, 2005, 10:24 pm
- Location: Michigan
PIC Serial Backpack I - Make your own Serial LCD
I have created a site that contains all information to make your own serial LCD to use with LCD Smartie. If you are interested:
http://www.freewebs.com/x7jay7x/
J
http://www.freewebs.com/x7jay7x/
J
-
- Plugin Author
- Posts: 1604
- Joined: February 13th, 2005, 7:38 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
- Contact:
-
- Hardware Genie - Plugin Author
- Posts: 374
- Joined: February 16th, 2005, 10:24 pm
- Location: Michigan
-
- Hardware Genie - Plugin Author
- Posts: 42
- Joined: June 28th, 2005, 3:42 am
- Location: Australia
I'm very busy at the moment, but I am trying to do a similar thing with an at90s2313. Please give me a yell if you can help!
Here are a couple of suggestions for v2:
->Looking at the schematic closer, I think it would be a wise safety precaution to put a 10k resistor on the reset pin, rather then straight to the 5v.
->There are quite a few left over inp/out pins, one could be hooked up to a transistor for an on/off backlight
->Try and get a pic with PWM; adjustable backlight and/or contrast
->Wire up the Tx pin to the serial port and you could have a few buttons
I?m trying to get my AVR version to support 1, 2 and 4 (the at90s2313 has no PWM) but if it works out, I intend to port it to a chip larger then 20pins
Here are a couple of suggestions for v2:
->Looking at the schematic closer, I think it would be a wise safety precaution to put a 10k resistor on the reset pin, rather then straight to the 5v.
->There are quite a few left over inp/out pins, one could be hooked up to a transistor for an on/off backlight
->Try and get a pic with PWM; adjustable backlight and/or contrast
->Wire up the Tx pin to the serial port and you could have a few buttons
I?m trying to get my AVR version to support 1, 2 and 4 (the at90s2313 has no PWM) but if it works out, I intend to port it to a chip larger then 20pins
Last edited by penjuin on July 27th, 2006, 6:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Hardware Genie - Plugin Author
- Posts: 374
- Joined: February 16th, 2005, 10:24 pm
- Location: Michigan
The 10k resistor on the reset pin is used primarily for in circuit programming.
The backlight on and off function is already working, I dont know why I didnt include it in this first version....thanks for pointing that out.
The new PIC I am testing has a PWM pin, this can be used for contrast/backlight
I hope to add buttons to this later on, but right now its not a priority.
J
The backlight on and off function is already working, I dont know why I didnt include it in this first version....thanks for pointing that out.
The new PIC I am testing has a PWM pin, this can be used for contrast/backlight
I hope to add buttons to this later on, but right now its not a priority.
J
-
- Hardware Genie - Plugin Author
- Posts: 42
- Joined: June 28th, 2005, 3:42 am
- Location: Australia
I proclaim myself to be the first to build one of _X7JAY7X_'s serial displays using a 2x16 display. I did this to prove that anyone can do it, provided you have access to a breadboard and a pic programmer. Here is some photo evidence (sorry about the quality & messy wiring; it was a quick job).


Sorry, but I didn't have a spare backlit lcd to test the PWM on.
A note of advice (for icprog users):
->Set the oscillator to IntRC i/o (internal crystal)
->Turn off ALL fuses


Sorry, but I didn't have a spare backlit lcd to test the PWM on.
A note of advice (for icprog users):
->Set the oscillator to IntRC i/o (internal crystal)
->Turn off ALL fuses
-
- Hardware Genie - Plugin Author
- Posts: 374
- Joined: February 16th, 2005, 10:24 pm
- Location: Michigan
Good job penjuin. I plan on putting a step by step instruction guide for programming the PIC. Try the backlight when you get a chance.
It can be put on a simple proto board from radio shack as well. There are so few parts that it wouldnt take much to get it all soldered up. This would make alot cleaner job and it can be mounted to the back of the LCD too.
J
It can be put on a simple proto board from radio shack as well. There are so few parts that it wouldnt take much to get it all soldered up. This would make alot cleaner job and it can be mounted to the back of the LCD too.
J
-
- Plugin Author
- Posts: 1604
- Joined: February 13th, 2005, 7:38 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
- Contact:
-
- Plugin Author
- Posts: 1604
- Joined: February 13th, 2005, 7:38 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
- Contact:
-
- Plugin Author
- Posts: 1604
- Joined: February 13th, 2005, 7:38 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: March 16th, 2006, 11:27 am
- Contact:
Hi, I found this
LCD for RS232 with Atmel
http://www.qsl.net/pa3ckr/bascom%20and% ... index.html
and this LCD for USB with Atmel
http://www.qsl.net/pa3ckr/bascom%20and% ... index.html
I haven?t tried it, but I am going to soon, so I can refer then how it works
LCD for RS232 with Atmel
http://www.qsl.net/pa3ckr/bascom%20and% ... index.html
and this LCD for USB with Atmel
http://www.qsl.net/pa3ckr/bascom%20and% ... index.html
I haven?t tried it, but I am going to soon, so I can refer then how it works

-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: March 16th, 2006, 11:27 am
- Contact:
I don?t know_X7JAY7X_ wrote:I didnt get a chance to look at your links closely, but are either of those MO or Crystal compatible?
J

Also, I wish to try your serial LCD, but I found there are two types of PIC16F628A: one is PIC16F628A-I/P and the second is PIC16F628A-I/SO. I read your manual how to program PIC, but I don?t know how to connect these PIC to PC to program it, do I need some special cabel, or what? Where could I get it? Thx much

-
- Forum Supporter
- Posts: 590
- Joined: March 8th, 2006, 1:58 pm
- Location: Scotland
The different suffix on the chip name specifies the package type.
/SO is Small Outline, the gull-wing type surface mount package.
/P is Plastic Dual Inline Package, the traditional through-hole chip package.
The functionality is exactly the same, but the pinout is sometimes different. For most hand soldering, you should stick with the PDIP (ie PIC16F628xx/P) package as it's bigger and easier to handle.
There are two type of PIC16F628: the original version (PIC16F628)and the "A "version (PIC16F628A). The "A" version supersedes the original (corrects some errors in the design etc) and I think runs at higher clock speeds. The "I" in the suffix (eg "-I/P") specifies an industrial grade device (higher temperature range).
To program PICs, you need a special programmer system. Fortunately, there are lots of inexpensive ready-to-use ones to buy, and kits to make your own. I use a home-made one that connects to the parallel port. You can buy inexpensive programmers that connect via serial, parallel or USB ports. You also need software to drive the programmer - this may come with the programmer if you buy one.
I use the David Tait "classic" programmer (parallel port, I built it myself) with IC-Prog software (free). Do a search, or visit your favourite electronics shop. Some programmer names are: David Tait; Dontronics; JDM; Velleman; Microchip.... look here for more: http://www.piclist.com/techref/microchip/devprogs.htm
That should get you started!
Those AVR/LCD links appear to just have info on how to use LCDs with BASCOM, rather than a MO/Crystalfontz type display emulator.
Matt.
/SO is Small Outline, the gull-wing type surface mount package.
/P is Plastic Dual Inline Package, the traditional through-hole chip package.
The functionality is exactly the same, but the pinout is sometimes different. For most hand soldering, you should stick with the PDIP (ie PIC16F628xx/P) package as it's bigger and easier to handle.
There are two type of PIC16F628: the original version (PIC16F628)and the "A "version (PIC16F628A). The "A" version supersedes the original (corrects some errors in the design etc) and I think runs at higher clock speeds. The "I" in the suffix (eg "-I/P") specifies an industrial grade device (higher temperature range).
To program PICs, you need a special programmer system. Fortunately, there are lots of inexpensive ready-to-use ones to buy, and kits to make your own. I use a home-made one that connects to the parallel port. You can buy inexpensive programmers that connect via serial, parallel or USB ports. You also need software to drive the programmer - this may come with the programmer if you buy one.
I use the David Tait "classic" programmer (parallel port, I built it myself) with IC-Prog software (free). Do a search, or visit your favourite electronics shop. Some programmer names are: David Tait; Dontronics; JDM; Velleman; Microchip.... look here for more: http://www.piclist.com/techref/microchip/devprogs.htm
That should get you started!
Those AVR/LCD links appear to just have info on how to use LCDs with BASCOM, rather than a MO/Crystalfontz type display emulator.
Matt.
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: March 16th, 2006, 11:27 am
- Contact:
ok, today I tried your serial version, but it doesn?t work to me 
Only in the first and in the third row of display (I have 4x20) are black squares, but displey doesn?t react to anythink. In smartie I set COM1 (I tried COM2 too, but the same problem
), then I chose Matrix Orbital settings and 9600bps. Display even doesn?t react when I set different Contrast and Brightness in MO settings in smartie. Then I upluged it, and the squeares were there still. Please, could anyone help me? Thx

Only in the first and in the third row of display (I have 4x20) are black squares, but displey doesn?t react to anythink. In smartie I set COM1 (I tried COM2 too, but the same problem

-
- Forum Supporter
- Posts: 734
- Joined: October 15th, 2005, 10:39 am
- Location: Romania
- Contact:
The black blocks on the first and 3rd line show up when you power the display and it's a normal condition.
You should check the conection between PIC and lcd. If you have this wiring right, when you power it, you should get written on the lcd:
_____________________
Jason Jacobs
SERIAL LCD v2.1
_____________________|
after you have this right you can try connecting to a computer.
Good luck!
You should check the conection between PIC and lcd. If you have this wiring right, when you power it, you should get written on the lcd:
_____________________
Jason Jacobs
SERIAL LCD v2.1
_____________________|
after you have this right you can try connecting to a computer.
Good luck!